Rainier Speed (Updated 6-5-13)

Admittedly, attempting speed ascents of mountaineering peaks on skis is a niche sport right now typically practiced by skimo racers worldwide. Numerous records are set in the Alps each season and have been for years. But similar practices in North America are just starting to be more common.

Andy and Jason following their attempt Spring 2012Athletes in all the great ranges are pursuing various traverses in Canada and peak ascents/descents in the States. Each range has their test pieces. Mount Rainier in Washington has been the recent objective for several ski alpinists in the last two seasons. Brothers Andy and Jason Dorais started the recent trend on Rainier late last season with a “roughly” 5-hour car-to-car effort. I say roughly because heavy fog thwarted their efforts at the end causing a major route finding detour impacting their finishing time. That said, their effort provided a starting point for future attempts. Details can be found here.

Eric and Stano suited up and ready to roll, Spring 2013A couple of weeks ago, Eric Carter, Stano Faban and Nick Elson from Vancouver had a go and destroyed the record in 4:19. Like the Dorais, they carried avy gear and crevasse rescue equipment. Both parties admit that with fore knowledge of route conditions, they would be willing to shed all unnecessary equipment to lighten up and go faster.

Upon hearing the news, Andy and Jason starting shaking in anticipation of their upcoming attempt. Late season snow high on the mountain will probably dictate a heavier burden of gear than they would like but they plan on having a go nonetheless.

Andy high on Rainier, 2012As these efforts gain the attention of the skimo community at large, I’m sure others will step up and throw down in similar fashion. I think a few simple rules have been established by these early attempts. Starting point is the Paradise parking lot. The traditional Disappointment Cleaver route is the course. Gear choice is based upon the risk tolerance of the skiers. Whatever is in your pack at the start should be there at the finish, food and water excluded, obviously.

I think the style of these efforts will quickly distill down to race skis and boots and, likely, Lycra race suits. It's funny that the North American ski mountaineering community in general laughs at these outfits but they're actually quite functional for this sort of thing. There's nothing pretty about descending on race equipment but foot weight is so critical that no serious time will be established on anything but the lightest skis and boots. It's interesting to note that Elson sported no suit and heavier boots than the others. Nick Elson looking like a climber but skinning like a skimo racer.I contend that he will easily shave 10-15 minutes off his current best when equipped appropriately.

Now, I can hear the grumbling of less time-minded skiers out there. All I can say is that mountaineers and, now, skiers have been timing themselves climbing and skiing up and down mountains for as long as people have been going into the hills. As I've always said, the speed game is not for everyone. If it doesn't interest you then don't play. But be sure to kindly get out of the way when one of these mouth breathers comes smoking up your ass. A friendly "Allez, allez!" would be nice as they storm by. 

UPDATE

As I suspected, the Dorais brothers destroyed the latest best time of 4:19, taking it down to 3:57:55. As opposed to their first effort last year, they actually had a few days on the mountain to settle in and rest appropriately while taking in the lower part of the mountain on casual ski days. But with a return to work looming and conditions nearly perfect, they set off this morning and got it done. I'll save the details for them to divulge. With big chunks of time being cleaved off these FKTs, it's clear that we're only scratching the surface of what can be done. That said, for the DC route, I don't think their are many skiers who will go faster. Like Dane says below, focus should turn to a more elegant, direct route and drop the time further. Chapeau!  

Comments

[jerimy]

With ever-changing glacial conditions, I don't see requiring a specific route as a ground rule. If one is able to catch the ID in prime condition and goes Paradise-summit-Paradise on the ID, that is the new time to beat regardless of route. You can distinguish speed records per route, but the record is fastest of all routes.

While a the Dorais brothers had an impressive attempt (while still leaving lots of room for improvement), getting lost and stopping the watch shouldn't establish the standard. Navigation is an essential component of mountaineering - speed attempt or not. If all you have to do is go Paradise-summit-elevation of Paradise, then why not ski the Nisqually Chute and drop below 5400ft sooner? Safe travels to those on future attempts.

[Brian]

Jerimy,

I agree but looking at a particular route and attempts made on it satisfy hyper competitive types like me and my friends. Going to the summit of any mountain and back down faster, whatever the route, is the ultimate goal of this game. But many of us like to compare ourselves to our peers so picking a route like the DC makes that simpler.

As for whether the Dorais attempt last year is valid, well, that's up to the rest of us to decide for ourselves. Those guys simply wanted something to show for their effort, which was significant, and presented something close to what their time would have been. If the audience (you, me, whoever) thinks its bullshit then so be it. Doesn't really matter in the long run. It's just a silly athletic endeavor.

The bottom line is that efforts like these beg comparisons with each other. The closer the route and conditions are for each attempt, the more you can say about the athletes who participated and how they stack up.

[Dane]

As far as records go I too believe the real score here is on the ID, not DC. When it is in conditon. Maybe going up and down Cadaver gap as well. Both last years and this years teams had never been on the mtn prior that I know of. Some time to be lost at the start from the Pardise parking lot to Pebble creek if you have little clue where the best track goes. And the fact DC sucks as a route. ID is so much cleaner I think as a ski route in good conditions.

My hats off to all the guys setting these recorsds but as a "local" and having some idea of the speed the teams so far are capable of, knowing the mountian, having the right conditions, on the right route is the real key to setting a speed record on Rainier. My take is no one capable of setting the best time..those involved to date.... have taken the effort serious enough to really lay down a "record" time.

[Patrick Fink]

That's great to hear about the Dorias brothers' FKT.

I recall reading the chiding Cascade Climbers responses to their trip report of their last speed attempt. The Northwest is, in general, not as up to date with the developing and merging sports of mountain travel, and is too closed-minded when it comes to risk management and speed.

Last year their futzing in the fog left room for jokers to have their say, but this is enjoyably more definitive and hopefully will inspire just as many NW young guns as it makes old-fogeys red in the face.

Cheers to a great achievement which only demonstrates how much potential is left to be explored!

[Brian]

Well said, Patrick. Anytime people can opine on some stupid forum, the lowest common denominator usually reveals itself. One only need spend about 30 seconds on something like TGR to get one's fill of the bilious effluent often seen purging from that site. CC is tame by comparison but I remember the hate from last year. Whatever. They smashed it today.

[Skiy5]

Agreed Brian. Cascadeclimbers.com is full of gross trash. Led by the owner, Jon Ryan. A monster who finds fun with his abuse. Illness is all over that forum. I also learned Jon Ryan was reported to the Seattle Washington Police Department for criminal cyberstalking. Whatever comes of it, he at least has a file on him now. Threats, obsessive badgering of criminal nature, thousands of posts to stalk and harrass.